Before coffee snobs, there were wine snobs. And they were sometimes
insufferable. So much so that the wife of one particular collector
couldn't resist making a playful switch during one of the wine tastings
her husband held with likeminded associates. She surreptitiously took
the party's dump bucket (the one into which all the extra wine is tossed
during a tasting) and poured it into an empty wine bottle. She later
served it during the tasting, label hidden, claiming it was a special
wine they simply had to sample. The cobbled concoction of disparate
varietals and competing profiles was so well received -- so very well
received, in fact -- that she couldn't bring herself to confess the
prank.
It's a version of a blind taste test that's been replicated
in various circles the world over, one that's called the assumption
that expensive wine actually tastes better than cheap wine into
question. In one legendary switch, a fledgling California wine entered a
blind tasting against wines crafted by storied
French Bordeaux producers -- and came out on top. Clearly, when it comes to wine, one's perception comes into play.
Some
studies even show the average wine enthusiast prefers cheap wine to
expensive wine, while wine connoisseurs may be able to tell the
difference between cheap and expensive wines -- but only just. The
lesson? When we do not know a wine's price, most of us will get just as
much enjoyment from a cheap bottle as we would from its pricey
counterpart [source:
Goldstein].
Before
you reset your wine budget to an all-time low (Two-Buck Chuck,
anyone?), consider the complications. The taste of wine isn't really
dependent on, well, the wine. The taste is a combination of the
alcoholic beverage in the glass and the environment in which you taste
it. The temperature of the wine matters. So do the circumstances, the
company you keep and the food with which you pair it.
When you
drink a wine, no matter the price, your perception of the wine will
influence the way you experience the taste. If you believe it to be an
expensive wine, then it will probably taste that way.
In one study, 20 participants tasted five Cabernet Sauvignons sorted by price (from $5 to $90) while inside an
fMRI machine
that measured brain activity. However, only three actual wines were
used. One of the $5 wines, for example, was secretly served as a $45
wine as well.
The study's participants found the more "expensive"
wines tasted better. The $90 bottle was preferred to the $10 bottle,
even when they were same wine. But here's the kicker: Because the
subjects believed they enjoyed the expensive wines more, they actually
did enjoy them more. The prefrontal cortex lit up when the most
expensive wines were sampled, amplifying their pleasure when drinking it
[source:
Lehrer].
Turns
out, there's a lot more to a pleasurable wine-tasting experience than
the wine itself. The taste of wine simply cannot be separated from our
perceptions about its price and quality, as well as environmental
factors -- such as good company and scenic views -- that influence how
we interpret the moment.
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